FT NEWS

Trendstop brings FashionUnited readers a first look at the Men’s collections hitting the runways for Resort 2023.

The Men’s Resort season began with designers focusing on elevated forms of casualwear in fresh and exciting ways. Deconstruction, embellishment, and hybrid formal/casual/streetwear styles breathed new life into wardrobe staples such as tees and denim. Conversations around gender continue, with feminine detailing, colour, and material usage that incorporated summery pastels, sparkle, and lush fabrications into the collections.

Dior Men

A giant blue wave provided the backdrop for Kim Jones’ Resort showcase held in Venice Beach and the Californian summer vibes continued as guest designer Eli Russell Linnetz joined Jones for a collection of 1990’s infused cool. In a fusion of Dior’s tailoring codes with streetwear, jackets were teamed with wide leg pants over skater sneakers and the house’s classic saddle bag was made in miniature, complete with a skater keychain strap. Sweaters emblazoned with the slogan ‘California Couture’ summed up the ethos behind the hybrid casual/formal collection.

MM6 Maison Margiela

Also taking a relaxed approach, Maison Margiela’s MM6 label explored the theme of togetherness as garments were spliced, cut up, and resewn together in a fresh look at casualwear. Deconstructed tees, remade to incorporate pieces of satin shirting and languid wide cut pants focussed on comfort and ease, whilst proportional play came through in the fitted shirts, skinny jeans and stretch shorts partnered with exaggeratedly chunky, thick soled sneakers and wide toe slip-ons.

Gucci

The menswear portion of Gucci’s ‘Cosmonogies’ collection saw gender boundaries continue to be explored within fashion. Constellation-inspired sparkle was applied to everyday garments such as denims and suiting encrusted with crystals, whilst a lame cloak harked back to medieval times with its chainmail-esque shimmer. Classic menswear codes still came through in slick vintage-inspired trench coats and more casual everyday looks such as down coats teamed with loose fitting trousers and fisherman sandals. The purple patent finale accessorised with latex longline gloves brought the collection back into an other-worldly space-age realm.